The Story Behind Nanyang Coffee (Kopi-O)
The traditional Nanyang coffee found in Malaysia and Singapore is originated from the Chinese immigrant of the late 18th century.
Coffee was once a remedy to the miners whenever they caught a cold. The miners boiled the dried fruits and leaves collected from the secret plant that they found with ginger and meat and drank it as medicine. The pleasing aroma from the soup attracted the English mine owner and he realised they were cooking and drinking coffee. He then taught the workers the correct ways to roast, brew and prepare coffee.
Due to the limited coffee beans that the miners could gather, they invented a new way of preparing this beverage – to add sugar when roasting the coffee beans. This resulted in the thick and sticky texture of the coffee, which eventually became the new name for Coffee, known as kopi-o-kow.
The Hainanese was the final batch of immigrants to came to Malaysia, where mostly worked as domestic helpers for the English employers instead of working as miners or coolies, they learned about coffee as they watched how their employer sipped on this aromatic drink.
Through continued observation and exploration, the Hainanese improved the kopi by adding molasses and butter into the roasting process shortly before the coffee beans are fully roasted. The phenomenal result became the new way of roasting the local coffee and this skill was preserved until this day.
Interview of Kopitiam Coffee (Kopi) Master (Traditional Coffee Barista)
Luan Fong Kopitiam
Name: Mdm Leong Swee Hium (1st generation)
Age: 86
Name: Mr Lim Teng Feng (2nd generation)
Age: 61
Name: Lim Shin Yi (3rd generation)
Age: 36
Mdm Leong
Experience: Mdm. Leong worked as the 1st generation Kopi Master (Traditional Coffee Barista) and the business was succeeded by her son, Mr. Lim.
“My husband came from Hainan (China) as an immigrant at his young age. Our coffee shop has no air-conditioning system and we run our business for the locals. My son is the coffee master now. I do not know about the future of this business. The younger generations shall decide.”
Mr. Lim
Experience: Mr. Lim used to work in Kuala Lumpur. He came back for this family business after his brothers decided not to continue running the Kopitiam. He is now running the business with his daughter, Ms. Lim, utilising what she had learned.
“Our business is mostly patronised by the regular customers, and now my daughter is helping to run the business.”
Ms. Lim
Ms. Lim came back to help after she completed her study in hotel management and worked in 3 different hotels out of her respect for her father and grandmother’s efforts.
“I hope I could use what I have learned to grow and transform our family business. My parents and grandmother are old now. It will be a waste if the business end.”
The current coffee shop is a newly rented place.
The Lim family moved their coffee shop business here after the owner of the previous location discontinued renting them the premise.
Although the shop (kopitiam) may not be as comfortable and modern as the other booming franchise coffees or the cafés, it remains the popular place for local communities of all races with its affordable price, friendliness, and cosy environment for people to share their daily stories with one another.
According to Ms. Lim, the biggest challenge for the business is manpower due to youngsters these days are prone to work at the glamorous modern café barista and franchise coffees than in an old fashioned kopitiam.
Coffee making, just like every other handmade works, relies heavily on experience. Hence the consistency of a cup of good coffee may vary due to the different level of expertise of the coffee master.
Video re-edited by: @jasonyew_
Special thanks to Steve Long @xiaoyoulong, Jye Lee, @leocyyap & @waaiwaiiwwai.